Currently plugged into shore power and charging batteries at 1200W. Solar this morning was 50ish watts in our shady spot in Yellowstone, ramped up to 515 watts or so once the day got a bit later and we were outside the park. Just not even sure where to begin troubleshooting because readouts have been looking normal despite the weird events. I've attached some photos as well - apologies in advance for the kabalsalat! I've tried cleaning up a bit, but definitely have room for further improvement. Air temp was chilly last night but not "that" chilly considering the batteries are inside, outside was in the 45-50F range while we were probably 55-60F inside.Īs we speak, we're in an RV park outside Yellowstone connected to shore power to get a full charge all over again, but more importantly for cell service to connect to you guys and try to troubleshoot something. The BMV eventually turned itself back on with a voltage of 13.05V, so not "actually" a low voltage or even 0% SOC. Once solar started kicking in around 8:30 am, we started getting some intermittent functionality of 12V users as one would expect. First thing this morning, we packed up and left Yellowstone to run some errands including buying a multimeter as well as dump/fill the Airstream. Silly me, left the multimeter at home so I didn't have a way to manually read the voltage. Inverter was completely off despite being in "ON" position. Checked the screen of the device itself and it was shut off. Around 1:30 am my wife woke me saying it was too quiet, she couldn't hear the fridge running. Batteries are inside, under the main bed.įast forward another 30ish hours, we went to bed and night temperatures drop fairly rapidly. No apparent temperature issues, outside temp was 84F and inside the trailer was probably 78ish. The battery guard appeared to have done its' job, albeit at the cost of the battery guard as the only way I was able to restore power was to bypass it. This tripped the battery guard, took me a little bit to locate the failure, initially thought it was the transfer switch because I've had a few issues with that. The SmartSolar controller said that the battery voltage had dropped to 9.12V which is obviously well below anything a LiFePo4 battery should ever see. The Multiplus had a low battery alarm, the BMV showed 57% and something like 13.35V. After 2 days of being parked at Yellowstone in a relatively shady spot and arriving with full SOC of 14.59V on the Battle Borns, 'something' tripped in the system and shut me down. Recently I completed a solar setup that I 'thought' was working well, or maybe currently think so? I'm not sure. Historically we run 5-6 days on batteries alone (setup details below). We've been parked for a few days in Yellowstone National Park in the US. Note: Clamping the battery too tightly in place and compressing the pad may decrease the pad’s effectiveness.Ĭaution: This product may excrete oil and stain certain surfaces and is recommended for placement in battery trays or boxes only.Honestly, vague title because I'm unsure where to even begin. This condition reduces the flow of amps which are required to power electrical components.Īnother cause of performance fading is the physical collision of battery plates as a result of shock and vibration. This condition causes a short in a cell or cells. This also, may cause a battery to have low voltage and insufficient power. Scientific explanation: When a battery is subjected to extreme vibration and shock, cracks occur at the interface of mechanical joints inside the battery and its cells. While some batteries are designed to withstand these forces better than others, all batteries can be damaged by shock and vibration over time.īattery failure will often be preceded by performance fading. This is because the stress of shock and vibration causes micro fractures inside the battery which reduce internal conductivity and cause a battery to have low voltage. Over time, as the micro fractures continue to propagate in the battery’s conductive components, internal resistances increase.
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